How to Look After Your Watch So It Lasts a Lifetime

What makes the difference

Most problems don’t stem from the product itself, but from how it’s used. Here’s what really makes a difference, listed in order of impact, along with specific steps and the mistakes that are made time and time again. No generic advice here: just things you can put into practice today and see the results tomorrow.

Step by step

1. Rinse off after swimming in the sea or the pool. Chlorine and salt both damage the watch and the strap. Rinse with fresh water and dry with a cloth, always keeping the crown closed.
2. Do not adjust the crown whilst the watch is wet. This is the most common route for water to enter. Let it dry out first and make sure you screw it back on if it’s a screw-on type.
3. Avoid sudden changes in temperature. Moving from the sauna into cold water causes the seals to expand and contract, and is a common cause of condensation under the glass.
4. Move the magnets apart. Speakers, magnetic bag fastenings and mobile phone holders attract a mechanic’s watch and throw it out of alignment. This is corrected by demagnetisation at a watchmaker’s.
5. Keep it safe. In its box or in a case, not loose in a drawer with other watches. If it’s made of leather, keep it away from damp and direct sunlight.

Straps and bracelets: the most cost-effective change

Changing the strap transforms a watch for €20–40 and is the best value-for-money upgrade there is. Measure the width between antlers (18, 20 and 22 mm are the most common) and choose according to your needs: steel for everyday use, skin for washing (never with water), rubber or FKM for sport and summer, and NATO made of nylon for a military look and quick changes. Look for pins made of quick release (quick-release) so that no tools are required. With steel bracelets, the detail that sets the good ones apart from the mediocre ones is the micro-adjustable fastening, which allows you to fine-tune the fit when your wrist swells in the heat.

How to buy a watch without being ripped off

Four things to check before paying: that the salesperson whether it is the manufacturer or an authorised distributor (on marketplaces, check who is shipping the item and who is invoicing); that the warranty is the brand’s official one and not just the seller’s; that the specifications advertised match the official profile from the manufacturer, particularly crystal and ATM models, as these are where claims are most often exaggerated; and ensure the price isn’t significantly below market value, which is a common sign of a replica. Keep the box, paperwork and receipt: with watches, these add to the value should you ever sell it.

Value and depreciation: which watches hold their value

Almost all watches are an expense, not an investment, and it’s best to buy them with that in mind. That said, there are clear patterns: models from brands with a rich history and limited production runs retain their value better on the second-hand market, whilst fashion brands lose between a 60 and 80 per cent as soon as they leave the shop. Affordable watches with an established reputation (the classics from Seiko, Casio or Orient) rarely fall much below the initial price range because their starting price is already low. The paperwork, the box and the condition of the strap affect the selling price more than people realise.

The gauges that are actually inside

Almost all automatic cars costing less than €500 are fitted with one of these engines: Seiko NH35/4R35 (reliable, hackable, 41-hour power reserve, the standard for affordable watches), Miyota 8215 (cheap, second hand with a slight wobble) or Miyota 9015 (finer and at 28,800 alternations). Moving up, we find the ETA 2824-2 and its equivalent Sellita SW200, and the Powermatic 80 by Tissot, which stands out for its 80-hour power reserve. Knowing the calibre tells you more about the watch than the brand: two watches with very different price tags may share the same movement.

• Quality of materials and finishes
• Recent verified reviews (including 3–4-star reviews)
• Warranty and returns policy
• Current price compared with its historical average
• Seller's reputation
• Make sure the key features suit your needs (day-to-day use)

Case size: the important figure is not the diameter

Everyone looks at the diameter in millimetres, but the person who decides whether a watch suits you is the lug to lug, the distance between the lugs. Rule of thumb: for a 16–17 cm wrist, look for a lug-to-lug measurement of just under 48 mm; up to 50–52 mm if your wrist is over 18 cm in diameter, 36–38 mm It is the classic style and the one that works best on a slender wrist or with a suit, 39–41 mm It’s the most versatile size available today, and anything over 44 mm takes you into the sports watch territory. A 40 mm watch with long, curved lugs looks better on the wrist than a 38 mm one with straight lugs.

Criterion	Fossil Gen 6Our choice	Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
Ideal for	Balanced and general use	Day-to-Day Life
Strength	Value for money	Specific features
Reviews	Very positive and numerous	Positive
Approximate price	from around €160	from around €100
Recommendation	Our choice	Best alternative
View on Amazon	See price →	See price →

Luminescence: Super-LumiNova and LumiBrite

Modern luminescent paint is not radioactive: it is a phosphorescent material that absorbs light and gradually releases it. Super-LumiNova (Switzerland) and LumiBrite (Seiko) are the models, with variants such as the bluish BGW9 or the greenish C3, which is the one that shines the brightest. What makes the difference in practice is not the paint brand but the layer thickness: that’s why a €150 Seiko can outshine a €1,500 Swiss watch. With diving watches, check that the bezel at 12 o’clock and the minute hand – which is the one that counts underwater – are also luminescent.

To conclude

Start by applying the advice above – that’s what makes the biggest difference – and leave the rest until you’ve had a bit of practice. If, after doing this, you still aren’t getting what you’re after, then it does make sense to change your watch: the Fossil Gen 6 is the most balanced option for making the switch, with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 as an alternative.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a GMT watch worth it?

Only if you travel or speak to people in a different time zone frequently: the fourth hand lets you see a second time at a glance. If it’s just for aesthetic reasons, a true GMT function makes the watch considerably more expensive than the same three-hand model, and the function will end up going unused.

How can I tell the difference between a genuine watch and a fake one?

Check three things before looking at the logo: the second hand (on an automatic watch, it should glide smoothly, not jerk), the weight and finish of the edges, and the serial number engraved on the case, which the manufacturer can verify. And buy from an authorised dealer: a price well below market value is the most reliable sign of all.

What watch should I give as a present if I don’t know the size of their wrist?

Go for a 38–40 mm case, which suits most wrists, and choose a steel bracelet with removable links or a standard leather strap: both can be adjusted later at any watchmaker’s for €10–15. Avoid diameters of 44 mm or more, which only suit wide wrists.

Does a watch lose its value over time?

Almost all of them, yes – just like any consumer product: for most, you’ll get half the price or less when selling them second-hand. Only a handful of highly sought-after models hold their value or even increase in price. Buy the watch because you enjoy wearing it, not as an investment.

Leather, steel or rubber strap?

Steel for everyday use and water, because it can withstand anything and cleans itself. Leather for dressing up, bearing in mind that with sweat it will last between one and two years. Rubber for sport and the beach. If the watch has quick-release buckles, having two straps completely transforms the watch in ten seconds and costs less than €25.

Should I go for the Fossil Gen 6 or the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80?

The Fossil Gen 6 is the most well-rounded option and our default recommendation. The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a good choice if your priority is everyday wear. As a guide for your budget, the price range starts at around €100, and the best value is usually found at around €160.

By the Watch Guide Team · reviewed by

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