How to Set the Time and Date on Your Automatic Watch

Before switching to a different model, try this

Many people switch to a different product when the problem was actually down to a minor issue with how it was used or maintained. Before you spend any money, have a look at this list: it’s cheaper than buying a new one and, in many cases, solves the problem completely.

Step by step

1. Identify the type of link. The bracelets use snap fasteners, screws or links with arrows marked on the inside to indicate which way they open.
2. Hand out the links. Remove the same number of links on either side of the clasp so that the buckle sits centred beneath your wrist.
3. Use the right tool. A pin remover costs less than €15 and prevents the edges from getting scratched, which is what happens when you use a makeshift screwdriver.
4. Make the most of fine-tuning. Before removing a whole link, check the holes in the clasp: they usually allow for 2–6 mm of play, which is enough to account for temperature changes.
5. Leave a finger’s width of space. The watch should be able to turn slightly but not slide down onto your wrist. If you’re going to wear it in summer, adjust it in the afternoon, when your wrist is at its most swollen.

Luminescence: Super-LumiNova and LumiBrite

Modern luminescent paint is not radioactive: it is a phosphorescent material that absorbs light and gradually releases it. Super-LumiNova (Switzerland) and LumiBrite (Seiko) are the models, with variants such as the bluish BGW9 or the greenish C3, which is the one that shines the brightest. What makes the difference in practice is not the paint brand but the layer thickness: that’s why a €150 Seiko can outshine a €1,500 Swiss watch. With diving watches, check that the bezel at 12 o’clock and the minute hand – which is the one that counts underwater – are also luminescent.

Which watch is right for each occasion?

The classic rule still holds true: the more formal the occasion, the more understated and simple the watch should be. For suit, a 36–40 mm case, a slim profile that fits under the wrist, a clean dial and a leather strap. For office and diary, an elegant sports watch measuring 38–41 mm with a steel bracelet covers all the bases. For sport and water, a 200-metre diver’s watch or a rugged digital watch. And for to travel, a GMT watch lets you keep track of two time zones at a glance. If you’re only going to own one watch, a 39–40 mm three-hand model with 10 ATM water resistance and an interchangeable bracelet is the most versatile option available.

Steel, titanium and coatings

The standard is the 316L steel, surgical grade, corrosion-resistant and easy to polish. The 904L (which Rolex calls Oystersteel) is slightly more corrosion-resistant and produces a denser polish, but the difference in everyday use is minimal. The titanium It weighs 40 per cent less and is hypoallergenic, making it ideal if you find the weight a problem, although it does show wear more easily. Regarding coatings: the PVD It is a thin layer that eventually wears away at the edges, whilst the DLC It is much harder and lasts for years. The gold plating on cheaper watches usually lasts between 2 and 5 years of daily use.

Value and depreciation: which watches hold their value

Almost all watches are an expense, not an investment, and it’s best to buy them with that in mind. That said, there are clear patterns: models from brands with a rich history and limited production runs retain their value better on the second-hand market, whilst fashion brands lose between a 60 and 80 per cent as soon as they leave the shop. Affordable watches with an established reputation (the classics from Seiko, Casio or Orient) rarely fall much below the initial price range because their starting price is already low. The paperwork, the box and the condition of the strap affect the selling price more than people realise.

• Quality of materials and finishes
• Recent verified reviews (including 3–4-star reviews)
• Warranty and returns policy
• Current price compared with its historical average
• Seller's reputation
• Make sure the key features suit your needs (day-to-day use)

Bezel: why the diving bezel only rotates in one direction

The rotating bezel on a diving watch is unidirectional For safety reasons: it can only move anti-clockwise, so that if you bump into it by accident, it can only shorten the calculated dive time, never extend it. That of a GMT is bidirectional and features 24 markings for reading a second time zone. The tachometer A chronograph allows you to calculate your average speed over a kilometre. And on a dress watch, a slim, polished bezel is what makes the case appear smaller and more elegant than it actually is.

Criterion	Hamilton Khaki Field MechanicalOur choice	Casio Edifice EQB-1200
Ideal for	Balanced and general use	Day-to-Day Life
Strength	Value for money	Specific features
Reviews	Very positive and numerous	Positive
Approximate price	from ~€128	from around €80
Recommendation	Our choice	Best alternative
View on Amazon	See price →	See price →

Quartz, automatic or manual: which to choose and why

The quartz It is the most accurate and the most practical: it diverts around ±15 seconds per month, it needs nothing more than a new battery every 2–4 years and is more shock-resistant. The automatic It is powered by a wrist movement and deflects between -10 and +30 seconds a day (a COSC-certified calibre has a rate of between -4 and +6), but it is the one with a mechanical soul, a sliding seconds hand and long-term value. The manual It needs to be wound every day and is usually more delicate, which is why it’s used in dress watches. If you’re looking for accuracy, go for quartz; if you’re looking for fine watchmaking, go for an automatic.

To conclude

Start by applying the advice above – that’s what makes the biggest difference – and leave the rest until you’ve got some experience under your belt. If, after doing this, you still haven’t got what you’re looking for, then it does make sense to change your watch: the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is the most balanced option for making the leap, with the Casio Edifice EQB-1200 as an alternative.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a smartwatch replace a traditional watch?

For training and receiving notifications, yes. As an object in its own right, no: a smartwatch becomes obsolete in three or four years and its battery only lasts a day, whereas a well-maintained mechanical watch can last well over thirty years. Many people end up owning both and switch between them depending on the day.

How much should a good first watch cost?

In the €100–200 price range, there are options that will last for years, featuring tried-and-tested automatic movements or maintenance-free solar-powered quartz watches. Moving up to the €400–700 price range buys you a better finish, sapphire crystal and movements with a longer power reserve, but not greater reliability.

Can you tell the difference between 316L and 904L steel?

In day-to-day use, not much. 904L offers slightly better corrosion resistance and can be polished to a higher shine, but it is more expensive to machine, which is why few brands use it. Surgical-grade 316L is the industry standard and is more than adequate for everyday use, even when exposed to sweat and salt water.

Can a smartwatch replace a traditional watch?

For training and receiving notifications, yes. As an object in its own right, no: a smartwatch becomes obsolete in three or four years and its battery only lasts a day, whereas a well-maintained mechanical watch can last well over thirty years. Many people end up owning both and switch between them depending on the day.

How much should a good first watch cost?

In the €100–200 price range, there are options that will last for years, featuring tried-and-tested automatic movements or maintenance-free solar-powered quartz watches. Moving up to the €400–700 price range buys you a better finish, sapphire crystal and movements with a longer power reserve, but not greater reliability.

Should I go for the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical or the Casio Edifice EQB-1200?

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is the most well-rounded option and our default recommendation. The Casio Edifice EQB-1200 is a sensible choice if your priority is everyday wear. As a guide for your budget, the price range starts at around €80, and the best value is usually found at around €128.

By the Watch Guide Team · reviewed by

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