Reference Guide · Updated on 9 August 2026 · Watch Guide Team

Smartwatch or traditional watch: which is the better choice in each case?

Autonomy, obsolescence, health and style pitted against one another without any marketing hype, with a specific example where a hybrid offers a better solution than either of the two.

Solar and Eco-Drive: the maintenance-free option

If you don’t want to change the batteries or set the time, solar technology is the most practical solution on the market. The Eco-Drive Citizen charges a cell using any light, including artificial light, and stores energy to 6 months in total darkness; the Seiko equivalent is the Solar, and its Kinetic generates electricity from movement. The Spring Drive The Grand Seiko is a hybrid watch with a perfectly smooth seconds hand and quartz-level accuracy. The solar cell lasts between 10 and 20 years – far longer than the batteries it replaces – and the capacitor is replaceable.

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The gauges that are actually inside

Almost all automatic cars costing less than €500 are fitted with one of these engines: Seiko NH35/4R35 (reliable, hackable, 41-hour power reserve, the standard for affordable watches), Miyota 8215 (cheap, second hand with a slight wobble) or Miyota 9015 (finer and at 28,800 alternations). Moving up, we find the ETA 2824-2 and its equivalent Sellita SW200, and the Powermatic 80 by Tissot, which stands out for its 80-hour power reserve. Knowing the calibre tells you more about the watch than the brand: two watches with very different price tags may share the same movement.

Power reserve – and what happens if you don’t have one

Power reserve is the length of time an automatic watch continues to run after you stop moving it: typically, this is 38–41 hours in traditional calibres, which means that if you take it off on Friday night, it will have stopped by Monday. Modern movements have extended that figure: the Powermatic 80 lasts up to 80 hours and some current calibres at 70. For several automatic watches, a rotary box It keeps them running, although this isn’t essential: leaving it switched off won’t damage the mechanism; it just means you’ll have to set the time again. What is advisable, however, is a service every 5–8 years.

Quartz, automatic or manual: which to choose and why

The quartz It is the most accurate and the most practical: it diverts around ±15 seconds per month, it needs nothing more than a new battery every 2–4 years and is more shock-resistant. The automatic It is powered by a wrist movement and deflects between -10 and +30 seconds a day (a COSC-certified calibre has a rate of between -4 and +6), but it is the one with a mechanical soul, a sliding seconds hand and long-term value. The manual It needs to be wound every day and is usually more delicate, which is why it’s used in dress watches. If you’re looking for accuracy, go for quartz; if you’re looking for fine watchmaking, go for an automatic.

Bezel: why the diving bezel only rotates in one direction

The rotating bezel on a diving watch is unidirectional For safety reasons: it can only move anti-clockwise, so that if you bump into it by accident, it can only shorten the calculated dive time, never extend it. That of a GMT is bidirectional and features 24 markings for reading a second time zone. The tachometer A chronograph allows you to calculate your average speed over a kilometre. And on a dress watch, a slim, polished bezel is what makes the case appear smaller and more elegant than it actually is.

Value and depreciation: which watches hold their value

Almost all watches are an expense, not an investment, and it’s best to buy them with that in mind. That said, there are clear patterns: models from brands with a rich history and limited production runs retain their value better on the second-hand market, whilst fashion brands lose between a 60 and 80 per cent as soon as they leave the shop. Affordable watches with an established reputation (the classics from Seiko, Casio or Orient) rarely fall much below the initial price range because their starting price is already low. The paperwork, the box and the condition of the strap affect the selling price more than people realise.

All smartwatches and classic watches (23)

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Frequently asked questions about smartwatches

Is a GMT watch worth it?

Only if you travel or speak to people in a different time zone frequently: the fourth hand lets you see a second time at a glance. If it’s just for aesthetic reasons, a true GMT function makes the watch considerably more expensive than the same three-hand model, and the function will end up going unused.

What watch should I give as a present if I don’t know the size of their wrist?

Go for a 38–40 mm case, which suits most wrists, and choose a steel bracelet with removable links or a standard leather strap: both can be adjusted later at any watchmaker’s for €10–15. Avoid diameters of 44 mm or more, which only suit wide wrists.

Leather, steel or rubber strap?

Steel for everyday use and water, because it can withstand anything and cleans itself. Leather for dressing up, bearing in mind that with sweat it will last between one and two years. Rubber for sport and the beach. If the watch has quick-release buckles, having two straps completely transforms the watch in ten seconds and costs less than €25.

Is a quartz watch or an automatic watch better?

For accuracy and peace of mind, choose a quartz watch: ±15 seconds a month and a battery change every 2–4 years. For long-term value, choose a mechanical watch with a sliding seconds hand and automatic winding, with a tolerance of between –10 and +30 seconds a day and a service every 5–8 years.

How much should I budget for a smartwatch?

It depends on how you plan to use it: there are good options in the entry-level range, as well as advanced models that are only worth the extra cost if you’re going to make the most of their features. Check the criteria in this guide, work out how you’ll actually use it, and compare the current price on Amazon before making a decision.

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