Men’s watches: how to choose one based on wrist size, intended use and style
Diameter, lug-to-lug width and thickness: the three factors that determine whether a watch suits you, plus a selection based on use (suits, everyday wear, sport).
Quartz, automatic or manual: which to choose and why
The quartz It is the most accurate and the most practical: it diverts around ±15 seconds per month, it needs nothing more than a new battery every 2–4 years and is more shock-resistant. The automatic It is powered by a wrist movement and deflects between -10 and +30 seconds a day (a COSC-certified calibre has a rate of between -4 and +6), but it is the one with a mechanical soul, a sliding seconds hand and long-term value. The manual It needs to be wound every day and is usually more delicate, which is why it’s used in dress watches. If you’re looking for accuracy, go for quartz; if you’re looking for fine watchmaking, go for an automatic.
Case size: the important figure is not the diameter
Everyone looks at the diameter in millimetres, but the person who decides whether a watch suits you is the lug to lug, the distance between the lugs. Rule of thumb: for a 16–17 cm wrist, look for a lug-to-lug measurement of just under 48 mm; up to 50–52 mm if your wrist is over 18 cm in diameter, 36–38 mm It is the classic style and the one that works best on a slender wrist or with a suit, 39–41 mm It’s the most versatile size available today, and anything over 44 mm takes you into the sports watch territory. A 40 mm watch with long, curved lugs looks better on the wrist than a 38 mm one with straight lugs.
Bezel: why the diving bezel only rotates in one direction
The rotating bezel on a diving watch is unidirectional For safety reasons: it can only move anti-clockwise, so that if you bump into it by accident, it can only shorten the calculated dive time, never extend it. That of a GMT is bidirectional and features 24 markings for reading a second time zone. The tachometer A chronograph allows you to calculate your average speed over a kilometre. And on a dress watch, a slim, polished bezel is what makes the case appear smaller and more elegant than it actually is.
Straps and bracelets: the most cost-effective change
Changing the strap transforms a watch for €20–40 and is the best value-for-money upgrade there is. Measure the width between antlers (18, 20 and 22 mm are the most common) and choose according to your needs: steel for everyday use, skin for washing (never with water), rubber or FKM for sport and summer, and NATO made of nylon for a military look and quick changes. Look for pins made of quick release (quick-release) so that no tools are required. With steel bracelets, the detail that sets the good ones apart from the mediocre ones is the micro-adjustable fastening, which allows you to fine-tune the fit when your wrist swells in the heat.
Which watch is right for each occasion?
The classic rule still holds true: the more formal the occasion, the more understated and simple the watch should be. For suit, a 36–40 mm case, a slim profile that fits under the wrist, a clean dial and a leather strap. For office and diary, an elegant sports watch measuring 38–41 mm with a steel bracelet covers all the bases. For sport and water, a 200-metre diver’s watch or a rugged digital watch. And for to travel, a GMT watch lets you keep track of two time zones at a glance. If you’re only going to own one watch, a 39–40 mm three-hand model with 10 ATM water resistance and an interchangeable bracelet is the most versatile option available.
Power reserve – and what happens if you don’t have one
Power reserve is the length of time an automatic watch continues to run after you stop moving it: typically, this is 38–41 hours in traditional calibres, which means that if you take it off on Friday night, it will have stopped by Monday. Modern movements have extended that figure: the Powermatic 80 lasts up to 80 hours and some current calibres at 70. For several automatic watches, a rotary box It keeps them running, although this isn’t essential: leaving it switched off won’t damage the mechanism; it just means you’ll have to set the time again. What is advisable, however, is a service every 5–8 years.
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Frequently asked questions about men’s watches
Will an automatic car break down if I leave it standing?
No. Leaving it switched off won’t damage the mechanism; you’ll just need to set the time when you use it again. What it does need over the years is a service, every 5–8 years depending on use.
How much does an automatic watch gain or lose per day?
A well-regulated mid-range movement typically runs between -10 and +30 seconds a day; a COSC-certified chronometer runs between -4 and +6. If yours falls outside this range, it can almost always be corrected with a service costing €40–70 at a watchmaker’s, rather than a full repair.
How can I tell the difference between a genuine watch and a fake one?
Check three things before looking at the logo: the second hand (on an automatic watch, it should glide smoothly, not jerk), the weight and finish of the edges, and the serial number engraved on the case, which the manufacturer can verify. And buy from an authorised dealer: a price well below market value is the most reliable sign of all.
Does a watch lose its value over time?
Almost all of them, yes – just like any consumer product: for most, you’ll get half the price or less when selling them second-hand. Only a handful of highly sought-after models hold their value or even increase in price. Buy the watch because you enjoy wearing it, not as an investment.
What budget do I need for men’s watches?
It depends on how you plan to use it: there are good options in the entry-level range, as well as advanced models that are only worth the extra cost if you’re going to make the most of their features. Check the criteria in this guide, work out how you’ll actually use it, and compare the current price on Amazon before making a decision.
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