Watches: Which is better – a quartz watch or an automatic watch?

Short answer

For accuracy and peace of mind, choose a quartz watch: ±15 seconds a month and a battery change every 2–4 years. For long-term value, choose a mechanical watch with a sliding seconds hand and automatic winding, with a tolerance of between –10 and +30 seconds a day and a service every 5–8 years.

Straps and bracelets: the most cost-effective change

Changing the strap transforms a watch for €20–40 and is the best value-for-money upgrade there is. Measure the width between antlers (18, 20 and 22 mm are the most common) and choose according to your needs: steel for everyday use, skin for washing (never with water), rubber or FKM for sport and summer, and NATO made of nylon for a military look and quick changes. Look for pins made of quick release (quick-release) so that no tools are required. With steel bracelets, the detail that sets the good ones apart from the mediocre ones is the micro-adjustable fastening, which allows you to fine-tune the fit when your wrist swells in the heat.

Case size: the important figure is not the diameter

Everyone looks at the diameter in millimetres, but the person who decides whether a watch suits you is the lug to lug, the distance between the lugs. Rule of thumb: for a 16–17 cm wrist, look for a lug-to-lug measurement of just under 48 mm; up to 50–52 mm if your wrist is over 18 cm in diameter, 36–38 mm It is the classic style and the one that works best on a slender wrist or with a suit, 39–41 mm It’s the most versatile size available today, and anything over 44 mm takes you into the sports watch territory. A 40 mm watch with long, curved lugs looks better on the wrist than a 38 mm one with straight lugs.

Solar and Eco-Drive: the maintenance-free option

If you don’t want to change the batteries or set the time, solar technology is the most practical solution on the market. The Eco-Drive Citizen charges a cell using any light, including artificial light, and stores energy to 6 months in total darkness; the Seiko equivalent is the Solar, and its Kinetic generates electricity from movement. The Spring Drive The Grand Seiko is a hybrid watch with a perfectly smooth seconds hand and quartz-level accuracy. The solar cell lasts between 10 and 20 years – far longer than the batteries it replaces – and the capacitor is replaceable.

Glass: sapphire, mineral or acrylic

The sapphire is hard 9 on the Mohs scale: Only a diamond or materials containing corundum can scratch it, which is why it’s the best choice if you’re using the watch every day. The mineral (hardness 5–6) can be scratched by sand, keys or cement, although it withstands a single impact better without chipping. The Hardlex Seiko’s is a hardened mineral, somewhere in between. The acrylic It gets scratched just by looking at it, but you can polish it at home with polish in two minutes, giving it that warm, domed look of vintage watches. An anti-reflective coating on the inside makes the dial much easier to read than one on the outside, which wears off.

• Quality of materials and finishes
• Recent verified reviews (including 3–4-star reviews)
• Warranty and returns policy
• Current price compared with its historical average
• Seller's reputation
• Make sure the key features suit your needs (day-to-day use)

How to buy a watch without being ripped off

Four things to check before paying: that the salesperson whether it is the manufacturer or an authorised distributor (on marketplaces, check who is shipping the item and who is invoicing); that the warranty is the brand’s official one and not just the seller’s; that the specifications advertised match the official profile from the manufacturer, particularly crystal and ATM models, as these are where claims are most often exaggerated; and ensure the price isn’t significantly below market value, which is a common sign of a replica. Keep the box, paperwork and receipt: with watches, these add to the value should you ever sell it.

Criterion	Seiko 5 SNK809Our choice	Citizen Eco-Drive BM8180
Ideal for	Balanced and general use	Day-to-Day Life
Strength	Value for money	Specific features
Reviews	Very positive and numerous	Positive
Approximate price	from around €480	from around €300
Recommendation	Our choice	Best alternative
View on Amazon	See price →	See price →

Luminescence: Super-LumiNova and LumiBrite

Modern luminescent paint is not radioactive: it is a phosphorescent material that absorbs light and gradually releases it. Super-LumiNova (Switzerland) and LumiBrite (Seiko) are the models, with variants such as the bluish BGW9 or the greenish C3, which is the one that shines the brightest. What makes the difference in practice is not the paint brand but the layer thickness: that’s why a €150 Seiko can outshine a €1,500 Swiss watch. With diving watches, check that the bezel at 12 o’clock and the minute hand – which is the one that counts underwater – are also luminescent.

Glossary: the terms you’ll see in the fact sheets

Lug to lug

The distance between the ends of the lugs. This determines how the watch sits on the wrist.

Power reserve

The number of hours a mechanical watch continues to run without being wound or set in motion.

Hacking

A function that stops the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out, to synchronise to the second.

ISO 6425

A standard certifying a watch as suitable for diving. It is marked ‘DIVER’S’ on the dial.

Alternations

Vibrations per hour of the movement (21,600 or 28,800 are the most common).

Fine-tuning

A clasp system that allows the size of the bracelet to be adjusted in small increments.

Super-LumiNova

Non-radioactive phosphorescent paint that absorbs light and glows in the dark.

So, which one should I buy?

Now that that’s sorted, choosing a watch is simpler than it seems: the Seiko 5 SNK809 is the safest bet, whilst the Citizen Eco-Drive BM8180 is the better choice if your priority is everyday wear. When it comes to watches, the practical price range starts at around €300, and the best value is usually found around €480; spending more than that is only worth it if you’re going to make the most of specific features. Check the current price before deciding, as it changes frequently.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size watch suits me best?

Focus on the lug-to-lug measurement rather than the diameter: under 48 mm for wrists measuring 16–17 cm, up to 52 mm if your wrist is over 18 cm. In terms of diameter, 39–41 mm is the most versatile range, whilst 36–38 mm is the classic choice for a slender wrist or a suit.

Do sundials need maintenance?

Virtually none. The cell lasts between 10 and 20 years and the capacitor can be replaced; under normal lighting conditions, even artificial light, they remain charged and retain a reserve of power for months in the dark.

How much does it cost to change a watch battery?

Between €8 and €20 at a watchmaker’s, depending on whether the case needs to be unscrewed and the water resistance retested. With a water-resistant watch, it’s worth paying for the pressure test: changing the battery without replacing the gasket is the most common reason for moisture to get in months later.

What size watch suits me best?

Focus on the lug-to-lug measurement rather than the diameter: under 48 mm for wrists measuring 16–17 cm, up to 52 mm if your wrist is over 18 cm. In terms of diameter, 39–41 mm is the most versatile range, whilst 36–38 mm is the classic choice for a slender wrist or a suit.

Do sundials need maintenance?

Virtually none. The cell lasts between 10 and 20 years and the capacitor can be replaced; under normal lighting conditions, even artificial light, they remain charged and retain a reserve of power for months in the dark.

Should I go for the Seiko 5 SNK809 or the Citizen Eco-Drive BM8180?

The Seiko 5 SNK809 is the most well-rounded option and our default recommendation. The Citizen Eco-Drive BM8180 makes sense if your priority is everyday use. As a guide for your budget, the useful price range starts at around €300, and the best value is usually found at around €480.

By the Watch Guide Team · reviewed by

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